Front Speaker Installation
Installing a new
set of MB Quart RSB 215 in the stock locations is not that hard, both front and
rear doors will take approx 4-5 hours to perform the task.
Parts Needed :
- Good set of 5.25" midrange and tweeters, I used the MB Quart RSB 215 for
$199 a set. They sound excellent! These are the Referenze Premium
- T10, T15, T30 Torx sockets or screwdriver sets
- 4mm Hex Key (Allen Wrench)
- 10mm and 13mm Sockets (Rear deck only)
- Pliers to strip away wiring sheath
- Heat Shrink Wrap (available for $1.99 at Radio Shack)
- Soldering Iron and Solder to make a good connection
- Kwik 1 Minute Epoxy (CA) $3.99 at most hobby stores
- Sleeping Back Camping Pad (Rear door Tweeters on DSP only)
Door Panel Removal - Steps
- Remove screw from inside forward vent flap (very important you do
this first to prevent cracking the vent)
- Remove screw behind door handle (pop off cover plug first) T15 Torx
- Remove window switch (pry out with micro screwdriver, pull out and
disconnect wire connectors)
- Remove lamp unit from bottom of door and disconnect wiring. Pry out
with micro screwdriver from the front-most edge.
- The entire lower portion of the door panel is fastened with plastic
push in clips around its perimeter. Use a long flat screwdriver (or
similar) to pry the panel away from the door at each clip point. Start
at the outside upper edge just above and below the opening for the lock
(striker). Look for the next clip point and pry as close as you can to
it. Be careful at the lower outside area - the clips are mounted on the
rear of the plastic storage box (not on the panel). You have to push the
screwdriver in all the way to the box and pry on it as opposed to prying
on the edge of the panel - otherwise you can end up prying the panel off
the storage box.
- With the lower panel clips all free, pull out slightly on the arm
rest handle and then twist and slip the door handle unit back through
- Now pull the entire door panel slightly outward at the bottom and
then lift upward - may take some wrestling to free it at the connectors
by the window. Before removing the door panel reach in and disconnect
the midrange speaker wiring connector.
MidBass Woofer Replacement
- Carefully pull the foam surround away from the speaker.
- Using a T10 socket or driver, remove the (4) retaining screws - one
at each corner.
- Disconnect the (4) wires from the woofer and remove the driver.
- NOTE: The woofers in the doors are dual voice-coil woofers. One coil
is used for the stereo system, the other is for the cellular phone. DO
NOT TWIST THESE WIRES TOGETHER AND USE BOTH PAIRS. I know this because
that's what I tried and got hosed. If you wire it this way you'll get
mono cross-talk between your left and right channels and the impedance
rating for your amp will be all wacked out of joint - not a good thing.
I believe the correct pair to use is the shorter one, but double check
it using your DVM. I removed the crappy poly fill and replaced it with
the good stuff I bought for my sub. Not sure it makes a difference, but
seemed like a good idea at the time.
- Use the supplied weather stipping and affix it to the back of the
new woofer frame before mounting. This will insure an air-tight seal. Be
sure to route the wiring for the woofer down in the bottom of the
sound-box. The new woofer magnet is deep and the driver will not seat
correctly if the wiring is behind the magnet.
- Use the metal ring mounting plates that came with the MB Quart
backwards onto the woofer so that it will mount flush with the woofer
- Use the short screws for remounting the woofer in the sound-box. The
holes will not line up, but that's ok. Be sure not to over tighten the
mounting screws because you will crack the surround. It's a tight fit,
so be sure the connectors do not get disconnected while you're wrestling
- Reattach the foam ring to the new woofer.
- Cut the wires from the factory tweeter. Leave enough wire on the old
tweeter in case you want to reinstall it at a later date.
- Splice the new tweeter's connections to the remaining piece with the
connector on it. Positive is the wire with the colored stripe on
it. Place strips of Heat Shrink wrap over wiring then twist wires
together. Solder wires together with just a small amount of
solder. Bend soldered wiring over to one side and slide heat
shrink wrap over solder job and heat with heat gun or hair dryer for a
- Remove the foam from inside the tweeter cavity.
- Replace the foam/tweeter assembly and put the molding back in place.
You will not be able to bolt the new tweeter in. It's sufficient to just
let the foam hold it there. I used Kwik 1 minute epoxy from Hobby
Shack to adhere the foam to the tweeter.
|Midrange Speaker can be replaced as well if you have a
good quality replacement for it. I do not know of one yet (haven't
Stock midrange speaker is 53mm in rear diameter. Anything similar
can be placed in that stock door location using CA 1 minute Epoxy and some
foam (I use camping pad material)
Reassembling The Door
- There is a plastic clip that fits into the metal channel behind the
arm rest. That clip must be in place as you remount the door - it slides
over that metal prong on the door. Be careful that clip does not drop
out. THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT!!!
- Double check that the cable from the door handle is fully within
it's plastic slot. If it slips out when you are pulling the unit back
through the door you will find there is some slack in the handle - once
you have it all back together - then you have to pull it off again.
- Thread wires back into location for window switch, midrange speaker
and lamp before you push the door panel on
- Push lock button down and fit door panel over button
- Push top panel back into clips at window - just thump them to lock
- Make sure you pull the wire for the window switch all the way out of
the handle - otherwise it might get caught across the front of the
- Now press the lower part of the door into position - onto that metal
pin behind the arm rest.
- Checking that each clip is over it's corresponding hole just push
each clip into place around the door edge. You'll hear a definite snap
sound when they're in place.
- Check your door handle to make sure it operates properly.
- Put the screws, switch and light back into place and that's it.
Rear Doors (DSP Optioned cars
only - Replacement stock tweeter with new MBQuart)
|Just follow the instructions similiar to the front doors.
I had to drill out the older tweeter (two mounting points, very easy)
and use Kwik 1 minute Epoxy to mount the new tweeter to the stock grill
angled towards the passengers. Then I used Camping Pad foam to
secure behind the tweeter to keep it from moving if it came loose, and
then use the Epoxy to secure the form to the panel.
Left = MB Quart Right = Stock
New Tweeter in place with Epoxy
Foam secured to panel to hold tweeter if it ever comes loose.
Note : Not all pictures are mine, some are from http://126.96.36.199/bmwsite/bmwmain.htm
I copied them so that if that website ever disappears, the
information is not lost.